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Webmaster |
| Handloading
Safety |
|
Contrary to what one hears in the news media and the claims made by certain politicians and
radical groups, shooting is one of the safest sports -- when practiced by persons of sound judgment in
accordance with basic rules of safety. Handloading is a safe and natural extension of that sport.
If any information in this document conflicts with information given in your handloading
manual or the instructions your received with your handloading equipment, always follow those instructions
-- not mine.
The wisest approach to getting started in handloading is to learn from an experienced
handloader who has no bad habits. The best mentor is an NRA
Certified Reloading Instructor. If there isn't an NRA instructor in your area, talk to your local gun
club or a good sporting goods store for a referral to an experienced handloader.
Handloading should be approached with the same degree of caution as an experimental science.
Each handloader assumes the responsibility of safe reloading practices and accepts the risk for failure to
apply good judgment and knowledge. Failure to apply proper safety precautions in this endeavor could result
in injury, death, or damage to the shooter, handloader, bystanders, facilities, or equipment. The author of
this webpage is not responsible for negative consequences of using or misusing information posted here. I recommend that handloaders always begin load development only by reference to a reputable reloading
manual.
General safety:
-
Read the instruction manual for each piece of equipment you use. Keep it handy for later
reference.
-
Understand what you are doing and why it must be done in a specific way.
-
Stay alert when handloading. Don't handload when distracted, disturbed or tired.
-
Never handload when under the influence of alcohol or drugs (legal or illegal).
-
Never smoke while handloading or near combustibles and explosives.
-
Always wear safety glasses while handloading.
-
Set up a well-organized, clean, well-lit work area.
-
Set up a loading procedure and follow it. Don't vary your sequence of operations.
-
Set up your handloading bench where powder and primers will not be exposed to heat,
sparks or flame.
-
Keep everything locked up and out of the reach of small children.
-
Keep your handloading bench clean and uncluttered. Label components and handloads for
easy identification.
-
Do not eat while handling lead.
-
Never try to dislodge a loaded cartridge that has become stuck in the chamber by
impacting it with a cleaning rod. Have a competent gunsmith remove the round.
-
Follow loading recommendations exactly.
-
Don't substitute components for those listed in your manual.
-
Start loading with the minimum powder charge given for your cartridge.
-
Never exceed manufacturers' handloading data. Excess pressures caused by excessive loads
could severely damage a firearm and cause serious injury or death.
-
When using an inertial bullet puller, use short, light taps instead of a single heavy
blow.
-
Never attempt to disassemble a cartridge unless you are absolutely sure the bullet
non-explosive or non-incendiary.
Gunpowder Safety:
-
Modern ammunition uses smokeless powder to propel the bullet down the barrel. It burns
with much greater energy and pressure than blackpowder. Therefore, never use smokeless powder in a
firearm designed for blackpowder.
-
Specific powders are designed for specific uses. Don't use them for other purposes.
-
Never mix smokeless powder and blackpowder.
-
Never mix blackpowder and blackpowder substitute such as Pyrodex®.
-
Never mix different brands or types of powder.
-
Never use an unknown gunpowder.
-
Pour out only enough powder for the immediate work.
-
Start new loads at 10% under maximum and increase slowly.
-
If you throw or measure powder charges by volume, check-weigh the charges every time you
begin loading, occasionally during loading and when you finish. Weigh the powder charge in at least 10%
of your loads to make sure you are dropping the proper amount of powder.
-
After charging cases with powder, check each and
every case before seating a bullet. Look for the proper amount
of powder and also ensure that there actually is powder in every
case. The best method to do this is to use a loading block so
that all cases are together and all can be visually compared to
ensure that they contain the same amount of powder. A double
charge of a fast burning pistol powder may not fully fill the
case, so look carefully!
-
Have only one kind of powder on the loading bench at a time.
-
Empty the powder measure back into the original powder container when through with a
handloading session.
-
Wash your hands thoroughly after handling powder.
-
Store powders only in original package. Don't repackage.
-
Keep powder containers tightly closed when not in use.
-
Clean up spilled powder with brush and dust pan; do not use a vacuum cleaner because
fire or explosion may result.
-
Store powder in cool, dry place.
-
Store and keep primers and powder separately.
-
Smokeless powder is extremely flammable. Dispose of deteriorated powders according to
recommendations in The Properties and Storage of Smokeless Powder SAAMI Reprint #376-2500, which is
published in some handloading guides or available from NRMA.
Primer safety:
-
Priming materials differ in brisance (initial explosive force) and in the amount of hot
gas produced. Don't mix primers of different makes.
-
Don't decap live primers. Fire them in the appropriate gun then decap.
-
Don't ream out or enlarge the flash hole in primer pockets. This can increase chamber
pressure.
-
Over-ignition creates higher gun pressures. The best results are obtained by using the
mildest primer consistent with good ignition.
-
Never use magnum primers unless called for.
-
Never use pistol primers in rifle cartridges. The pistol primer cup is thinner and can't
take the pressures of rifle loads.
-
Don't use primers you can't identify. Ask your local police or fire department to
dispose of unidentifiable or unserviceable primers.
-
Keep primers in the original packaging until used. Don't store in your primer feed tube
or primer tray. Return unused primers to the factory package. Don't dump together and store in bulk.
There is a risk of mass detonation if one is ignited.
-
Open only one package of primers at a time.
-
Never attempt to seat, or reseat, a primer in a loaded round.
-
If you accidentally seat a primer upside down, spray the exposed primer with WD-40 or
other light oil then discard the case. If you need to save the case, let the oil soak into the primer
for at least an hour, then inset the case in a neck sizing die with the sizing button removed. Wrap
several towels around the die in case it detonates, then slowly ease it out with your reloading press.
-
Do not force primers. If you feel resistance to seating or feeding of primers, stop and
investigate.
-
Store primers in a cool, dry place. High temperature, such as in a summer attic, causes
them to deteriorate.
-
Store and keep primers and powder separately.
-
Don't handle primers with oily or greasy hands. Oil contamination can affect
ignitability.
-
Clean the machines after each use. There have been instances of "primer
dusting" in the tubes of loading tools because of vibration.
Lead safety:
-
Lead is known to cause birth defects, reproductive harm and other serious physical
injury. It must be handled with extreme care.
-
Never eat, drink, or smoke when handling lead.
-
Handle lead bullets or lead shot only in a well ventilated area.
-
Always wash hands after handling lead and before eating.
-
Molten lead is hot -- 650-750 degrees Fahrenheit. This is no activity for children --
not even to watch!
-
Hot lead on skin takes a long time to cool -- severe burns will invariably result.
-
Wear eye protection and heavy clothing including leather gloves, a heavy apron, heavy
jeans, and high-top leather boots. Welding supply stores sell clothing that will provide good protection
at affordable prices.
-
Never drop ingots or culled bullets into molten lead. The splash is extremely dangerous.
Instead, slip that ingot into the molten lead with tongs.
-
Molten lead gives off dangerous lead fumes. The smoke and fumes from fluxing also caries
dangerous lead fumes. Always melt lead in a very well ventilated area.
-
Never heat lead to more than 900 degrees Fahrenheit. Doing so is completely unnecessary
and will create significantly more dangerous fumes.
-
The melting pot must have a steady base -- a lap full of hot lead would surely take all
the fun out of casting and handloading.
-
Never discharge firearms in poorly ventilated areas.
Handloading rifle & pistol cartridges
-
Never start with a maximum load. Start with the minimum powder charge and work up in
small increments to no more than the maximum listed in your reloading manual watching for indications of
excessive pressure.
-
If you are using a single stage press, do each step to the lot you are reloading before
moving on to the next step.
-
Examine cases before loading. Discard any that are not in good condition.
-
Label boxes of loaded cartridges. Identify caliber, primer, powder and charge, bullet
and weight, and date of handloading.
-
Seating depth of the bullet is extremely important in handgun loads. Handgun powders
must burn very quickly because of the short barrel. They are sensitive to small changes in crimp, bullet
hardness, bullet diameter, primer brisance and especially to bullet seating depth.
-
Check the overall length of the cartridge to be sure the bullet is seated properly.
-
Accumulation of lead or grease in the bullet seating tool may force the bullet in too
far.
-
If the bullet isn't seated deeply enough, it may engage the lands of the barrel when
loaded. This will increase the chamber pressure.
-
If you cast your own bullets, remember their hardness, diameter and lubrication affect
the ballistics.
-
Plastic cases designed for practice loads (where the bullet is propelled by primer gas
only) can't be used for full powder loads.
Prevent missing & double charges
-
It is easy to double charge if you are momentarily distracted. Use a depth gauge to
check powder height in a shell. A piece of doweling rod can be used as a depth gauge.
-
Observe the powder level of cases placed in the loading tray. This is a way to discover
any cases with missing or double powder charges.
-
Take care to operate progressive loaders as the manufacturer recommends. Don't back up
the turret or jiggle the handle. Don't use a shell to catch the residue when cleaning out the powder
train.
Return to Top |
 |
|
Glossary |
|
Like most other hobbies, handloading has its own
"language". Here are some terms you need to be familiar with. See your handloading manual for more
handloading information.
-
Anneal
-
The process of
altering the structure of metal so as to relieve it's working stresses, prevent brittleness, and increase
it's ductility. Only the case neck is annealed.
-
Antimony
- A metal which increases the hardness of lead when combined as an alloy.
-
Anvil
- A metallic part
of the primer. The blow from the firing pin crushes the priming mixture against the anvil causing
ignition.
-
Ball
- In military
nomenclature this term refers to the bullet.
-
Ball
Powder - This
is a trade name for a double-base smokeless powder developed by Olin Industries. The grains have a
spherical, or flattened spherical shape.
-
Ballistics
- The science of
projectiles in motion.
-
Ballistic
coefficient - Ratio
of the sectional density of a bullet to its coefficient of form. Represents the projectiles ability to
overcome air resistance in flight.
-
Battery
cup - A type
of primer used in shotshells which makes use of an outside cup to support it in the case.
-
Bearing
surface - That
portion of the bullet surface which bears on, or touches, the bore.
-
Bell
- To open the
mouth of a case slightly in order to seat a bullet more easily.
Also called flare.
-
Belted
case - A case with a band formed into the head of some cases (magnum type) to strengthen the case and to
control the headspace of the cartridge.
-
Berdan
primer
- A common European priming system with no integral anvil. Instead, it makes use of
an anvil formed in the case itself. It is fitted in the primer pocket in the head of centerfire cartridge
cases.
-
Black
powder - A mixture of charcoal, potassium nitrate, and sulfur used as a propellant in muzzleloaders and
early cartridge firearms.
-
Boat
tail - A bullet
design having a tapered base.
-
Bore
- The inside diameter of a barrel before the rifling is cut.
-
Boxer
primer -
A type of primer used in American rifle and pistol ammunition and featuring a self contained anvil. It is
fitted in the primer pocket in the head of centerfire cartridge cases.
-
Brass
- An alloy usually of 70% copper and 30% zinc of which most metallic cases are formed. The term also
allies to the empty cartridge case.
-
Brisance
- The detonation rate and intensity of an explosive such as a cartridge primer.
-
Bullet
- That portion of the cartridge which becomes a projectile when in flight. Sometimes also called ball.
-
Bullet
& powder scale - A
device to weigh charges of powder. A beam scale is a scale where markers, called "poise", are
moved along a weight graduated beam, as the pan is filled with powder, until the balance point is reached.
An electronic device used to measure the weight of powder in grains or grams.
-
Burning
rate - A term used to describe the rapidity with which a given powder will burn. The term itself is a
relative one based on a comparison with other powders.
-
Caliber
- The approximate diameter of a bullet or bore, expressed in hundredths of an inch or in millimeters. A
bullet with a diameter of .308 inches is called 30 caliber (not .30 caliber).
-
Cannelure
- A groove (or grooves) cut around the circumference of a bullet or case. These grooves, usually one to a
bullet, provide the best means of securely crimping the case mouth into the bullet. In a case, the
cannelure is used as a stop for an inserted bullet.
-
Canister
powder -
Powder which is manufactured to consistently meet a standardized specification and packaged so
handloaders can get predictable results.
-
Cap
- Primer.
-
Cartridge - A completely
loaded, ready-to-fire round of ammunition.
-
Case - A cylindrical container
which holds the primer, powder and bullet. Also called hull, shell, or brass.
-
Case forming - To alter the shape of a case to a
different shape or caliber.
-
Case
neck brush - A metal or
nylon brush and handle used to clean the inside of case necks.
-
Case
trimmer - A device used to
remove excess material from a case mouth. Metallic cases stretch after extensive reloading and firing
because the brass flows forward. These cases must be trimmed back.
-
Case
trimmer pilot - The pilot guides the cutting portion of the case trimmer by fitting inside the neck of the
case to be trimmed.
-
Cast
bullet - Bullets for rifle
or pistol which are cast from lead or lead alloy. Muzzleloading projectiles and shotgun slugs are cast in
pure lead.
-
Centerfire
- Refers to a cartridge having a primer located in the center of its base. Most centerfire cases are
reloadable.
-
Chamber
- The part of the bore at the breech which is formed to accept and support the loaded cartridge.
-
Chambering
- A designation given to cartridges with a specific caliber, case size and shape, case head configuration,
design, and which should not be used in firearms designed for a different chambering. A chambering is
given a name (ie 7mm Mauser, .357 Magnum) to distinguish it from other chambering. This name is usually
indicated by a headstamp.
-
Chamfer
- To bevel the inside of a case mouth. The bevel allows bullets to start into the case mouth
without crushing the case.
-
Charge
- The amount of powder used in the case at each loading. Also refers to the amount of shot used in a
shotshell.
-
Choke
- A constriction at the muzzle of a shotgun barrel designed to control the spreading of shot.
-
Chronograph
- An instrument used to measure the velocity of a projectile.
-
Components - The parts that make up a cartridge. The
case, primer, powder and bullet or other projectile.
-
Compressed
charge - A charge of powder which so nearly fills the case that it is compressed when the bullet is
seated.
-
Corrosion
- The eating away of the bore or case by rust or chemical action.
-
Crimp
- The bending inward of the case mouth to grip the bullet. Used only with bullets having a
cannelure or crimping groove. With
shotshells the term applies to the closure at the case mouth.
-
Crimped
primer - A forcing inward of the brass around the top of the primer pocket. This is frequently found on
military cartridges and is done to prevent set-back of primers. The crimp must be removed before repriming
the case.
-
Deburr - To remove the small metal
burrs or roughness from a case mouth or primer flash hole.
-
Deburring
tool - The deburring tool
removes burs from the inside and outside of any newly trimmed case mouths.
-
Decap
- Removal of the spent primer from a fired case,
most often accomplished by the decapping pin in a die during the resizing operation of handloading. Also
called deprime.
-
Decapping pin - A needle-like rod in the sizer die which
pushes out the spent primer.
-
Die
- A tool that reforms cartridge cases and seats bullets. In bullet manufacture, a tool that swages bullets
or cores, extrudes lead wire or draws jackets.
-
Dram
equivalent - Term used to indicate that a charge of smokeless powder produces the same velocity of a given
number of drams of black powder.
-
Drift
- Deviation of a projectile from the line of departure due to its rotational spin or the force of wind.
-
Drop
- The distance a projectile falls, calculated from the line of departure.
-
Double
base powder - Smokeless powder made with nitroglycerine and nitrocellulose base.
-
Duplex
load - The use of two different powders in loading the same cartridge. Not recommended for handloaders.
-
Energy
- A projectile's capacity for doing work at a given range, expressed in foot-pounds.
-
Erosion
- The wearing away of the bore due to friction and/or gas cutting.
-
Expander - The part of a die that expands the case mouth
to receive the bullet.
-
Fireform
- Reforming or changing the shape of a cartridge case by firing it in a chamber of a desired shape.
-
Flash
hole - A hole leading from the primer pocket to the inside of a case through which the primer
ignites the powder charge in a case.
-
Foot-pound
- A unit of kinetic energy equal to the effort required to raise one pound of weight to a height of one
foot, against the normal pull of gravity.
-
Freebore
- The distance in the barrel, if any, which the bullet travels before it contacts the rifling. Some
barrels are purposely relieved to allow the bullet considerable free movement before it strikes the
rifling.
-
Gas
checks - A copper or brass cup which is used to protect the base of a cast lead alloy bullet from the
effects of burning powder gases.
-
Gliding
metal - A copper-zinc alloy used for bullet jackets and gas checks.
-
Grain
- A unit of weight measure. 437.5 grains equal one ounce; 7000 grains equal one pound.
-
Handloading - Another term for reloading.
-
Hangfire - Slang term for any detectable delay in
cartridge ignition.
-
Head - The
base of a cartridge case that contains the primer, rim, extracting grove, and headstamp.
-
Headspace
- The distance from the breech face to the part of the chamber which acts as a stop and prevents the
cartridge from moving forward.
-
Headstamp
- Markings stamped into the head of a case indicating (in most cases) the manufacturer, caliber and
name of the cartridge. On military cases codes are used to indicate manufacturer and date of
manufacture.
-
Heel
- The outer edge of the bullet base.
-
Hollow
point - A bullet design which features an axial hole at the point. The purpose of the hole is to aid
expansion on impact.
-
Ignition
- The action of setting the powder charge on fire.
-
IMR
- Abbreviation for "Improved Military Rifle."
-
Jacket
- The covering or "skin" of a bullet.
-
Keyhole
- The imprint of a bullet which struck sideways on a target rather than point first.
-
Lands
- The raised portion of the rifling.
-
Loading
density - Ratio of the volume of the powder charge to the volume of the case. The higher the better in
terms of accuracy.
-
Lube
dent - A dent in the cartridge case caused by using too much lubricant when resizing.
-
Lube
pad - A pad, impregnated
with lubricant, on which cases are rolled before resizing.
-
Lubricant
- Case sizing lubricant is used to reduce friction between the case and die during the resizing operation
in reloading. Bullet lubricant is used to help minimize bore fouling when firing lead or lead alloy
bullets.
-
Mercuric
primer - An obsolete primer in which the priming material contains mercury.
-
Mid-range
trajectory - Refers to the distance the bullet rises above the line of sight. Mid-range trajectory is
calculated halfway between the muzzle and the target.
-
Minute-of-angle
- A unit of angular deviation equal to 1/60th of a degree. For practical purposes, it is usually
approximated as equal to one inch at 100 yards.
-
Misfire
- The failure of a cartridge to fire after the firing pin strikes the primer.
-
Muzzle
- The front end of the barrel.
-
Muzzle
energy - See "Energy."
-
Neck
- The upper portion of a cartridge case that grips the bullet. In a bottlenecked case, that portion
of the case in front of the shoulder.
-
Neck-size
- To resize only the neck portion of a case.
-
Neck sizer die - A die used to resize only the neck
portion of the fired case back to approximately its original dimensions.
-
Non-corrosive
- Usually refers to primers having a priming mixture which is free of corrosive compounds. Modern primers
are non-corrosive.
-
Ogive
- Refers to the nose shape of the bullet. The radius of the curve of a bullet nose.
-
Powder
- The propellant used in most firearms. It produces a large volume of gas when ignited. There are two
basic types; smokeless and black powder.
-
Powder charge - The amount of powder loaded into a case.
-
Powder
funnel - A helpful accessory that facilitates transfer of powder from a scale pan or measure to a
cartridge case.
-
Powder
measure - An adjustable
volumetric measure that meters out uniform charges of powder.
-
Powder
& bullet scale - A
device to weigh charges of powder. A beam scale is a scale where markers, called "poise", are
moved along a weight graduated beam, as the pan is filled with powder, until the balance point is reached.
An electronic device used to measure the weight of powder in grains or grams.
-
Press - The tool which performs the
major tasks of handloading.
-
Pressure
- The force exerted by a burning charge of a powder in the chamber of a firearm. Expressed normally in
pounds per square inch.
-
Primer - A small metal cap
containing a detonating mixture used to ignite the powder charge in the case.
-
Primer
pocket - The cavity in the base of a cartridge into which the primer is seated.
-
Primer pocket swaging - The "smoothing out" of
the crimped primer pocket found in military cases.
-
Priming - Installing a new primer
into a case.
-
Ram - The steel shaft running through the center of the
press that holds the shell holder and drives the case into the die.
-
Reloading press - The tool which
performs the major tasks of handloading.
-
Resize - To restore a fired case to approximately its
original size.
-
Resizing
die
- The reloading die that restores fired cases to designed dimensions and removes spent primers by means of
a decapping pin.
-
Rim
- A flange on the head of a case which is engaged by the extractor to pull the case from the chamber.
-
Rimfire
- A cartridge containing the priming mixture within the case rim. Rimless cases are not considered
reloadable.
-
Round
- A military term meaning one single cartridge.
-
Round
Nose (RN) - A bullet design which features a rounded nose.
-
Sabot
- a light-weight disposable plastic cup in which a sub-caliber projectile is centered to permit firing in
a larger caliber barrel.
-
Seating
depth - The depth to which the base of a bullet is seated below the case mouth.
-
Seating
die
- The reloading die that presses the bullet into the neck of the cartridge case, crimping the case if so
desired.
-
Sectional
density - A bullet's weight, in pounds, divided by the square of it's diameter in inches.
-
Shell
holder
- A device attached to the top of the ram which holds the head of the cartridge case as it is moved up and
down, into and out of the die.
-
Shoulder
- The angled portion of a bottlenecked cartridge case between the
case neck and body.
-
Sizing die
- See resizing die.
-
Spent primer - A primer that has been fired.
-
Swage
- The forming of an object such as a bullet or primer pocket using pressure in a die instead of casting
molten lead in a mould.
-
Throat
- That area of the bore immediately ahead of the chamber tapering to the point where rifling starts.
-
Trajectory
- The path of a projectile in flight relative to the line of sight.
-
Trim-to-length
- The length a cartridge case should be trimmed to after it has stretched past it's maximum case length.
-
Turret
press
- A reloading press with a rotatable multi-station turret top for positioning dies and powder measure in
their appropriate sequence.
-
Twist
- The angle of the rifling in relation to the axis of the bore measured by the length of barrel required
to rotate the bullet one complete turn.
-
Velocity
- The speed at which a projectile travels. Usually measured in feet per second at a given range.
-
Vernier
caliper - A slide-type graduated instrument used to measure overall cartridge and case lengths precisely.
-
Wadcutter
(WC) - A bullet design which features a sharp shoulder. Designed to cut a clean round hole in a paper
target.
-
Web
- That portion of a cartridge case between the bottom of the primer pocket and the interior of the case.
-
Wildcat
- A cartridge formed by altering an existing commercial case to make a style that is not available from
commercial ammunition manufacturers.
-
Work-harden
- The increase in metal hardness due to repeated flexing or stress. See "Anneal."
-
Yaw
- The action of a projectile spinning erratically around it's own axis.
-
Zero
- The ranges at which a firearm will hit the point of aim.
Return to Top |
 |
| Reasons for Handloading |
Most reloaders handload because it is interesting, less
expensive than shooting factory loads and because they can often develop more accurate loads for specific
guns.
- By handloading you can save 50-65% as compared to the cost of factory ammunition. In my area, I can
buy factory 30-06 ammo for about 60-90 cents per round, depending on manufacturer and load. About half
of that price is for the reusable brass case and the cost of manufacturing. That's where the savings
come in. Of course you'll spend around $200 for equipment, so you'll need to send a few round downrange
before you actually realize any savings.
- Handloaders generally make better shooters,
because they can afford to practice more.
- Through handloading you will develop a much keener knowledge of shooting technology and be able to
tailor your ammo to a particular firearm. Also, you can shoot more for less, and practice makes perfect.
- By careful experimentation within prescribed limits, you can improve your accuracy for hunting or
target shooting by developing the load that works best in a specific firearm. And you can match your
ammunition to the type of game you are hunting or your particular kind of target shooting.
- Reloading requires you to save empty cases, thus preventing litter in the field or on the range.
Besides, the case or is often the most expensive part of a loaded round, so saving your empties saves
you money.
- Reloading allows you to stay in close touch with shooting, even during the off season. It is an
enjoyable pursuit that enhances shooting knowledge and ability.
- The handloader can assemble ammunition that just isn't available commercially such as a batch of
low-recoil 30-06 rounds with 100 grain cast lead bullets for some plinking that rivals the .22 LR in low
cost.
- Handloading may the only way to get ammunition for obsolete and wildcat guns.
Return to Top |
| Equipment |
|
The following list describes required and optional equipment in the order each item is most
likely to be used. Most manufacturers sell their most popular reloading tools in a kit with a bit of a price
break. With care, ammunition can be safely handloaded without using the optional tools, but these additional
tools can help improve the accuracy of your product.
Reloading manual:
- This
is the most important accessory you must have. Without this information, you do not know what is a safe
or unsafe load. Always keep current editions, because powder formulas change.
- Most manufacturers of handloading equipment, powders, and bullets sell excellent handloading manuals.
These books include step-by-step handloading instructions. They also give proven loads for all popular
cartridges with various bullet weights and velocities. In most cases, these loads are safe for firearms
in good condition.
- A good example, which I use, is the Speer
Reloading Manual. This manual is a complete, step-by-step, top rated reference for everything you want
to know about handloading. It contains over 600 pages of information, data and illustrations.
- You'll probably eventually want the manual
for each brand of bullets you use.
- There are many other excellent books in
handloading which can provide supplemental information on the process. I've included several in the bibliography
at the end of this page.
Bench:
-
  A
solid workbench is essential. It needs enough mass (weight) to stay put while you're applying pressure
to the handloading press.
- Many handloaders find that the benchtop should be about as high as the handloader's beltline. Another
recommendation is to stand 18 inches away from a wall, then pivot your straight arm toward the wall with
your fingers outstretched. The point where your fingertips touch the wall is the ideal benchtop
height for you.
- You'll want enough bench space to lay out your tools and components.
- A
cabinet or some shelves to store and organize components is a nice addition. Shelves should be at least
12 inches above the benchtop.
- You'll want a good overhead lamp to give you a nice, bright work area.
- Any good workbench will do. I'm using a so-called workstation by Sears which is similar to a steel
tool cabinet but has a 40-inch height and a 20x32-inch top suitable for mounting my press and other
handloading tools. It has 5 drawers for storing components, dies, moulds, and other handloading
paraphernalia. It's on wheels, so I can easily move it out of the way when not in use. If you want to
build a nice wooden bench, a good set of plans is available from the National
Reloading Manufacturers' Association, 1 Centerpointe Drive, Suite 300, Lake Oswego, OR 97035 for
about $3.
- Here is a description of my reloading bench pictured at the
top of this page. My Sears "bench" is a 26" wide tool cabinet.
Including the casters, the cabinet is 35" tall. The drawers are
3", 4" and 6" deep. Pick any good quality tool cabinet that fits
your needs. Don't get a cheap model -- you need drawers that
will hold lots of weight. Although my cabinet is a heavy-duty
one, I wish I'd bought a larger one. I think spending another
$50-100 would have been money well spent. The top 3" drawer has
general tools such as mallet, ball-peen hammer, pliers,
screwdrivers, wrenches, calipers, etc. The second 3" drawer
holds my bullet molds, bullet sizing dies, bullet lube, etc. The
4" drawer holds my case care stuff such as sizing lube and pad,
loading blocks, labels, impact bullet puller, primer tray, case
neck lube kit and mica powder, etc. The top 6" drawer hold all
my reloading dies. The bottom 6" drawer holds items I use
infrequently such as extra tumbler media and brass for calibers
I don't shoot or reload in the hopes that I'll be able to trade
it for brass I can use.Here is how I attached the top: 1 -
Decide how tall you want your counter top. If you like to stand
as you operate your press, I suggest making the bench top level
with your belt buckle. If you operate your press while seated,
you'll need to experiment to come up with a height that is
comfortable while seated on whatever you sit on (ie shop stool,
chair). Subtract the height of your tool cabinet from the
desired countertop height to determine how high the structure
needs to be that you'll attach to the top of the cabinet. 2 - My
countertop is a free 24x48" scrap tossed out by a local
countertop installer. Using "Liquid Nails" adhesive (comes in
caulk-type tubes) and 3/8" lag screws I attached 26" long 2x4s
to the lower surface of the countertop to build it to the height
determined in step 1. Pre-drill and countersink the holes, but
be careful you don't drill deep enough to damage the "Formica"
on the countertop. It'll end up heavier than you expect, but
weight is good -- it adds stability to the bench. Paint the wood
as desired. 3 - Remove the cabinet drawers for access to the
inside surface of the cabinet top. Once again, pre-drill holes
for more 3/8" lag screws along with large fender washers to
attach the countertop assembly to the top of the tool cabinet. 4
- Replace the drawers. 5 - I added a large eye screw to each end
of the countertop assembly -- about 12" from the back edge. I
put two similar eye screws into the studs of the wall behind the
reloading bench. I attached two turnbuckles to these pairs of
eye screws to attach the bench to the wall. I can mash down on
the press handle all I want and the bench won't tip or even
wiggle. It's as solid as the house. However, by simply removing
the turnbuckles, I can roll my bench anywhere I want. 6 - The
countertop isn't long enough to permanently attach my my bullet
sizing press and shotshell reloader. So, they are bolted to a
12x26" pieces of 3/4" plywood. When not in use, they're hanging
from a hook in the ceiling. To use them, I clamp the plywood
base to my bench to the right of my reloading press using
c-clamps. This way, it only takes seconds to set up these other
tools.
Safety glasses
Case cleaning tumblers (optional):
- When fired, ejected empty brass nearly always land in the dirt. The result is dirt or dust inside and
outside the case. Dirty ammunition is murder on firearm chambers and bores. Dirt isn't any better for
your handloading dies, either. Therefore, a wise handloader ensures all his cases are clean before
proceeding with the handloading process.
- Simply washing with soap and water, rinsing, drying, and wiping cases is usually sufficient.
- Electric tumblers are very effective cleaning cases and giving them a nice like-new shine. Fill the
tumbler with cases and either granulated walnut shells or granulated corn cobs available from the same
venders who sell the tumblers.
- Vibrating tumblers cost from $50 and up.
- Do not tumble loaded ammunition -- this can be very dangerous. Tumbling loaded ammo can break down the
powder causing extreme pressure problems.
Caliper or case length gauge: 
- During each firing, the case is stretched by the expanding gasses. The diameter of the case is
restored to factory specs by pressing it into a resizing die. The case also stretches in length and can
become so long that it can fail to feed properly into the firearm.
- Case length of used cases should be checked against the specs given in your handloading manual.
- Caliper ($20 and up) can be used to exactly measure the case length.
- A case length gauge (about $10) will quickly check case length. A typical gauge covers over 30
different cartridge lengths.
Case trimmer (optional):
- Every time you fire and handload a case it
tends to stretch. When a case has stretched beyond the factory-specified maximum length, it must
be trimmed to size.
- Sometimes the case mouth is not square and should be squared for best accuracy.
- A device similar in appearance to a small lathe easily and accurately trims cases to size. You will
need trimmer pilot for each caliber you handload.
- A good trimmer will cost about $45 and up.
Neck turning tool (optional):
- Neck thickness can vary from case to case and may not even be even all the way around on a given case.
- This tool shaves a bit of metal from around the neck to ensure consistent neck thickness. Remove
just enough brass to get uniform neck wall thickness.
- Don't
cut so far down the neck that you get into the case shoulder. Doing so will severely weaken the case.
Deburring tools (optional).
- A case mouth deburring tool removes any burrs around the case mouth left after trimming. It also gives
a slight bevel to the inside edge of the case mouth.
Primer pocket tools:
The
primers in military brass are crimped in place, making decapping difficult. A decapping
punch from Lee easily removed crimped primer from military brass.
- A primer pocket tool reams the primer crimp found on military brass. Some primer pocket tools also
square up the bottom of the primer pocket at a uniform depth. Be careful you don't take out so much
metal the pocket won't hold a primer properly!
A
primer pocket swaging die uses pressure to reform a military primer pocket to accept a new primer.
Unlike a pocket reamer, a swaging die ensures the primer pocket is round and of correct dimension as
well as free of crimping. Many handloaders prefer the swaging process over reaming the primer pocket.
- Primer pocket brushes are used to clean out primer ash left by the spent primer with a twisting
motion.
- Burrs on the inside of the flash hole can cause erratic ignition. Some handloaders use a flash hole
deburring tool to remove this burr.
Case neck brush:
- A case neck brush or a bore cleaning brush is used to ensure the inside of the neck is smooth and
clean.
Case lube kit:
- Unless you are using carbide dies, you'll need to apply a thin film of lubricant to each case before
resizing the case (and decapping the old primer).
- Failure to lubricate will eventually result in a stuck case with the case base pulled off -- not a lot
of fun to remedy. Too much lubricant can result in pressure dents in your cases.
- A typical case lube kit contains a bottle
of case lube, a case lube
pad and a couple of case neck brushes with an accessory handle.
- A good lubricator kit, when properly used, will apply just the right amount of lubricant. Just a light
amount of lube on the pad goes a long way. Simply roll several clean, empty cases on the pad together to
lube several at once. You only need a light film on the cases. Do not lubricate the case shoulder.
- Many handloaders use a spray lubricant rather than a pad.
- Make
sure you remove the lube before dropping the powder in -- oil will ruin your powder.
Primer tray:
- This tray is a clever little device that quickly
orients primers anvil up for faster handloading. To use, scatter primers onto the grooved tray, then
shake the tray horizontally until all primers are anvil side up. Primers can now be picked up manually
and placed into the priming arm.
- If using an automatic primer feed tube, replace the
primer tray cover and invert. The primers are now anvil side down and can easily be picked up with the
top end of your automatic primer feed tube.
Priming device:
- Most handloading presses have a lever built in to prime empty cases.
- Many handloaders use an automatic primer feeder. This is a tube which feeds primers to the priming
lever on the press for quick priming of a large batch of cases.
With this tool, primers will drop one at a time into the primer plug and sleeve on the handloading
press. Depending on the cartridge you are loading, you will need different tubes for large and small
primers.
- A hand priming tool designed specifically for the priming process is available for around $28.
Reloading trays (aka Loading blocks):
- You will want two trays for each family of calibers you handload. One tray will hold cases which are
ready for a specific step in the handloading process. The tray has holes to hold your cases upright so
they don't tip and spill powder and for ease of grasping the next case to be processed. As each case is
processed, it is placed into the second tray. When the first tray is empty, that handloading step is
complete for all cases. You then switch trays and proceed with the next step, etc.
Reloading press:  
- The press is used to resize the brass cases, replace
the fired primers and seat the bullet.
- Most handloading presses have a bench-mounted cast iron structure which holds a die on its top and a
piston-like ram in the base which inserts the case into the die to perform various functions.
- Most presses have a primer foot which presses a new primer into each case as it's processed.
- Press sizes vary quite a bit. Make sure the one you buy will handle the largest cartridge you'll
handload.
- Some RCBS press models will also reload shotgun shells -- something to consider.
- A good single-stage press will cost about $60 and up. With a single stage press, you will change
handloading dies between each step, but this only takes a minute.
- Some presses have a turret on top to hold a full set of dies as well as the powder measure. With such
a press, all steps are completed on each cartridge without the need to set up for the next step.
- A hand-held press is also available for about $30.
Shellholder:
- Cartridge cases come in a wide variety of shapes, lengths, and diameters. Most calibers share a head
size and configuration with a family of other calibers. You'll need a shellholder for each cartridge
family you'll load.
- The shellholder is attached to the ram and grips the base of the cartridge as it is pressed into the
dies.
- Note: Most shellholder brands seem to be standardized as far as dimensions go, but different brands
may be numbered differently. Therefore, if your shellholder brand isn't the same as the publisher of
your reloading manual, the shellholder number listed in your manual may not match the number on your
shellholder. This shouldn't be a problem. Just use the shellholder designated for that cartridge by your
shellholder's manufacturer.
Dies: 
- When a cartridge is fired, it actually
stretches to tightly fit the gun's chamber. This seals the chamber, keeping gases from blowing back into
your face. After combustion is complete, the case springs back slightly so it can be easily extracted
from the chamber. However, it is still larger than before. It may no longer fit in another firearm of
the same caliber and it likely will not hold a new bullet securely. It may not feed properly in a
semi-automatic firearm, even in the same gun! Therefore, we must resize each fired case. This is done by
forcing it into a die which reshapes it to factory dimensions.
- You'll need a set of dies for each caliber
you plan to handload. Dies are generally sold in sets of 2 or 3 dies for each cartridge caliber.
- These dies perform various operations on the cartridge including decapping (removing the spent primer
from the last loading), sizing (restoring the case to factory designed dimensions), seating the new
bullet, and in some cases, crimping the case mouth to grip the bullet.
- The decapping process is done at the same time as the sizing. This is done by a pin which presses the
old primer out of its pocket. Most handloaders will eventually break this decapping pin, so it's a good
idea to have a couple of spares on hand to avoid interruption of the handloading process.
- You
will use a set of two dies for loading bottleneck type cases
(most commonly used in rifles). The first die is the resizing die and
the de-capping die. At this point you put the new primer into the case. Some sizing dies have the option
to open the case mouth up slightly at the extreme end of case travel. Most bullets have a slight indent
at the base of the bullet and will begin the seat in the case with no widening of the case mouth at all,
and will make a very snug fit that won't have to be crimped. But, if you plan to make some low powered,
lead plinkers you would need the option to expand the case mouth a bit. The second die in the 2 die set
is for bullet seating and crimping (if required).
- You will use a set of three dies for
loading straight-wall type cases (most commonly used in handguns). The additional die in a 3-die set is
used to expand the mouth of straight-wall cases. These often use cast lead bullets and even when
bullets are sized and lubricated, some lead can be shaved off if the case mouth does not have a slight
"flare" or enlargement just where the bullet enters the case. This flare is closed when the
bullet is seated or even reversed if you seat the bullet deep enough to crimp the case mouth. The first
die of 3 usually just resizes the case back to original dimensions (in some dies it also decaps). The
second die will decap (remove the primer) the case and "bell" or open the case mouth slightly.
You control how much opening occurs by how deep you insert the case into the die. This is adjusted by
how deep the die is screwed into the press and the lock ring on the die is set to the depth you prefer.
At this point you put the new primer into the case. The last of the three dies is for bullet seating and
closing the mouth of the case even or even crimping the case mouth on the bullet. Lead bullets usually
either have a crimp grove or can be inserted just deep enough to get past the largest part of the bullet
to put a slight crimp on the case.
- Most dies are made of steel. One of the most important factors in selecting dies is the hardness of
the steel and the polish of the inside (particularly the re-sizing die). The best dies are made of
tungsten carbide and are not supposed to need lubricant. I use it anyway. Nickel-plated cases sometimes
scratch steel dies and are best sized in carbide dies.
- The sizing die gets a lot of hard work. If a case has a speck of sand or dirt on it, it can scratch
the die. Then, every case sized after that will be scratched. Buy high quality dies. The extra cost up
front will be well worth it. Of course, you still should take special care to have cases clean and free
of corrosion, dirt, sand, and grit.
- Additionally, always keep your dies impeccably clean and free of the slightest trace of corrosion.
Accumulations of dirt, lube, wax, etc. on your dies not only increase the chance of damaging your dies
and cases, they will change the way your dies form your cases or seat your bullets. Use a light oil
(such as WD-40 or Hoppe's) on a Q-Tip to clean your dies after every use. The resizing dies seem to get
the dirtiest the fastest. If you seat lubricated bullets, your seating die will accumulate dirt very
quickly, too. Keep 'em clean!
- Each die has a lock ring to lock it in the desired adjustment. The lock ring is prevented from moving
out of adjustment by a set screw. I recommend you place
a lead shot ahead of the setscrew. The lead is softer than the setscrew and will flow into the die
thread to stop the lock ring from turning. Much less pressure is then required on the head of the
setscrew and damage to the threads is avoided.
- Many manufacturers make "competition" dies which are designed to ensure the bullet is seated
in perfect alignment with the axis of the bullet and chamber. This increased precision would improve
accuracy and would be especially important to competitive shooters. They cost substantially more, but if
you need the best in accuracy, the cost would be worth it. Again, I've never used competition dies, nor
have I felt the need for them since I don't shoot competitively. That said, the standard dies I buy on
sale at Wal-Mart have always been very good to me. For example, I get 1/2" three-shot groups at 100
yards with my 30-06 reloads in my old GI Springfield 03-A3 with a 2-groove barrel. I just don't think
expensive competition dies can do much better than that.
- A typical two-die set costs around $25 and up while a three-die set costs around $35 and up.
Die
locknuts:
- These
nuts that have a setscrew to lock the nut to the die. This saves you the time of adjusting the dies
every time. This is especially important if you have a single stage press, since you are constantly
switching dies out. I recommend you place
a lead shot ahead of the setscrew. The lead is softer than the setscrew and will flow into the die
thread to stop the lock ring from turning. Much less pressure is then required on the head of the
setscrew and damage to the threads is avoided.
Powder measure:
- At least one manufacturer sells sets of dippers to measure the amount of powder to be poured into the
freshly primed case.
- Most handloaders use a mechanical powder dispenser made up of a hopper to hold a supply of gunpowder,
a volumetric metering mechanism to measure powder quantity, and a drop tube to pour the measured powder
into the waiting case. Such a measure will cost about $35 and up.
- Fill the powder measure hopper with your favorite powder and adjust the micrometer adjustments on the
side to dump exactly the right amount of powder into the case below the spout. A little
"kicker" weight is used to shake the measure to ensure all the measured powder charge drops
into the case (sometimes some sticks to the sides or hopper). You should always weigh several measures
after you get it adjusted to ensure it is consistent with the load you want.
- A good powder measure "throws" a well-controlled amount of powder directly into the empty
case. A good measure will be accurate to about 1/10 grain. This is usually considered good enough for
most shooting.
- Some powders, due to their granule size and shape, are more difficult to measure consistently. When
measuring these powders, it is especially important to be very uniform in your movements when throwing
charges.
Scale: 
- You will need a scale that weighs in grains. A very accurate scale designed to measure very small
weights is essential. Accuracy to tenths of a grain is important. A postal scale just won't do!
- It is necessary to always weigh your powder charge to know how much you are putting in the cases. Even
the little "volume" measuring scoops people use need to be checked.
- The accuracy of the charge thrown by the powder measure should be checked prior to each use,
periodically during a handloading session, and when changing the amount or type of powder to be
dispensed with each "throw."
- Once the accuracy of the powder measure is established (and periodically verified), use of the scale
is optional.
- Shooters who are after the optimum accuracy and consistency usually weigh every charge.
- The best scales use a magnet to dampen the beam oscillations for quick, accurate readings. Most
handloaders use a balance scale costing around $60. Electronic scales are also available for about twice
that price.
Check
weights:
- Use
these calibrated weights to verify the accuracy of your scale. These are precision weights in various
denominations, from .5 grain to 20 grains for a basic set.
Powder trickler (optional):
- Those handloaders who like to weigh every charge typically "throw" a slightly underweight
charge from their powder measure. They then gradually add powder until the desired weight is attained.
- A powder trickler let's you "trickle" little bits of powder into your scales to exactly
measure the charge you want. For precision shooting, you might want exactly 48.5 grains of a powder. Set
your powder measure to 48 grains, and bulk dump that into the dish on the scales. Then, with the
trickler, you turn the knob and trickle in just the amount you need to exactly balance the scales at
48.5 grains. Now you have an exact load and can duplicate it for every round.
Funnel:
- A funnel is essential for pouring weighed charges into cases without spillage.
Bullet moulds (optional):
- Moulds are made of either steel, brass, copper, bronze, or aluminum and have a pair of handles.
- Moulds open like a pair of tongs or pliers to drop the freshly cast bullet.
- Aluminum, copper, bronze, and brass moulds are moulds are softer than steel moulds and are easily
nicked or scratched, so they need a bit more care.
- Steel moulds are likely to rust if not properly cared for.
- I like the aluminum moulds (Lee brand moulds
are a bargain and of excellent quality). They warm to casting temperature more quickly than the other
metals, and need no break-in.
- Prices run from less than $20 to $100 and more depending on brand, construction, and number of
cavities.
- Custom moulds can be ordered if you need a special size or shape of bullet. Be prepared to pay a
premium price.
Lead melting pot or furnace (optional): 
- Most bullet casters use a cast iron pot placed over a stove to melt lead for casting bullets.
- Some bullet casters use a pot or furnace with built in thermostatically-controlled electric heating
coils to melt lead. The typical lead furnace will hold up to 20-25 pounds of lead. Some have a spigot
for pouring lead from the bottom for increased convenience.
Casting Ladle and casting thermometer (optional):  | |